Dorothea’s Education and Adventures in Denmark

By Dorothea Larsen Adaskin (No. 1 August 7th to 31st, 2008)

Dorothea Adaskin writes: Note my shoes. One of the teachers wrote, "How would this old person manage"? On our first night of orientation I wore my Keen shoes. She said teachers took one look at my shoes and knew I meant business and would survive.

I attended school in Denmark in the years 1947-1949. I was accepted again in 1989, when by chance I met Murray. No question, I made the right decision to marry but the idea of returning to school lingered. In 2007 I saw a notice in the Elderhostel paper saying a Scandinavian Seminar could provide application information for study in Denmark. Perseverance in completing application forms was all that was needed. One day word arrived that I had been accepted at Grundtvigs Højskole in Hillerød, a city north of Copenhagen. Magic happened. My residence, Parkwood Place, a part of Revera Retirement surprised me by awarding a scholarship of $2020! How remarkable, at the age of 84, to be supported so positively in the interest of learning.

August 7, 2008 was filled with child-like anticipation. Packing and arrangements made, daughter, Tanya, her husband, Tony and I boarded the evening SAS flight from Seattle to Copenhagen (København). Sitting next to each other, like three peas in a pod, we slept until the attendant offered a warm face cloth signaling a new day had begun.

In the crowded international airport we made our way to Avis car rentals. Our destination was Roskilde, about 30 km west. Reservations at the youth hostel was a fortunate decision because no hotels were available. I had called three months earlier and learned this was the busy season. My name only had reserved the room for two nights.

My granddaughter, Gretchen arrived two hours before us. She had the adventure of finding her way from Copenhagen airport to Roskilde. Well done, Gretchen! She was given access to our room by merely saying we were on our way. Our small room with bath had a table, two chairs and two bunk beds. Our belongings covered every square inch of the room. (We traveled with sleeping bags from home ). On her way to the hostel Gretchen had met a girl, Amy from Texas. On our second night Amy knocked on our door needing a place to sleep. There is always room for one more. We managed fine.

The youth hostel (Vandrehjem), is a wooden, modern structure, beautifully located on Roskilde Fjord near the Vikingship Museum (Vikingeskibsmuseet). Buffet breakfasts included an astonishing variety of drinks, cereals, milk products, breads, pastries, fresh whole fruit and even thin sheets of chocolate to be eaten on buttered bread. Of course, as is the custom everywhere in Denmark, candles were lit--even at breakfast.

Much to our pleasure, we were invited for dinner in the home of Roma Engmann and Gunnar Rasmussen, who have been friends for 20 years,. My family was delighted to be warmly welcomed in their charming home and enjoyed their generous hospitality and dinner elegantly served.

My family had seven days for their first trip to Denmark. We spent the first day in Roskilde walking the streets, parks and visiting the Roskilde Cathedral (Roskilde Domkirke) where Danish Royalty are buried. A boy’s choir rehearsed as we walked about. After two hours, but before completing our wondrous tour, we were asked to leave because a wedding was to take place. Later, we watched the bride and groom about to depart in a polished 1936 Ford.

A highlight was standing on the dock as the Viking ship, Havhingsen, rowed into harbor after a journey of 2400 sea miles. (www.havhingsen.dk) The captain, Erik Nielsen, is Canadian. We learned a great deal about Viking life and their ships. Around the Vikingship Museum (vikingeskibsmuseet.dk) handwoven tents housed crafts. People dressed in costumes of the period. They had made everything from raw materials and had learned many skills to make this possible. They busied themselves preparing food and making sails, tools, pottery, jewelry, clothing and things necessary for life so long ago.

About 48 years ago I walked Tanya to kindergarten. Years later I had the fun of taking Gretchen to kindergarten. It was now their turn to take Mom/Grandma to school. We made the 45 minute drive from Roskilde to Hillerød to see the school. A summer course was to start in a few hours but during our visit we were given access and were free to walk the halls and look into all rooms. We were impressed!

A remarkable feature was the glass-peaked roof of the long hallways, letting light spread down from second to first floor. Plants 10-15 feet tall on first level grow in the ground covered with bark. Large potted plants stood in connecting halls to classrooms and dorms, with smaller pots on tables and on window ledges. Art and sculpture added ambience, and together with reading material and places to sit, there was a feeling of tranquility in the halls. The library is never locked and books are checked out on the honor system. We liked the setting and what we had seen of the school. Though well worn through use, we felt this would be a good place to learn and enjoy life with other students. Some questions went unanswered but we left with a positive feeling about the days ahead

In Hillerød, we also visted Frederiksborg Castle, (frederiksborgmuseet.dk) built by King Christian IV in the 1500s. It is a majestic sight seen from both the outside and inside. It houses fascinating historical items from the past and it was not easy to convince my family we had to leave. My mention of a stop at the nearby bakery was my final tool of persuasion.

Our destination from this northern point in Sealand (Sjælland) was thirty kilometers from the southern point of Denmark to the city, Nykøbing on the island of Falster. We enjoyed the countryside on this two hour drive. We stayed overnight with Elsebet, a relative, who lives in a newly renovated, artistically furnished apartment overlooking a waterway. Our dinner treat was a huge selection of open face sandwiches (Smørrebrød), a new, first class treat for Tanya, Gretchen and Tony. It is so pleasant being with family.

It was by chance that I had met Elsebet six years earlier. I did not know of my family in Denmark. When attending the Schubertiade music festival in Roskilde 2003, a friend from Sidney asked me to join her family for lunch in the home of a friend. Introductions were informal, by first name. When asked about my parents Elsebet quickly brought out the family album where I recognized a picture of my grandmother! (We are from the Nyholm family but not the same generation or branch of the family.) Contact was made with Elsebet’s sister, Inge and husband, Sune in Fole. The bond continues.

Our journey next day took us, first by ferry, then by car across the island of Langeland and Taasinge and on to Funen (Fyn). We saw the church in Vejstrup where Mom was baptised in 1891. We asked a girl of ten how to find the church. Wanting to be helpful she asked if it was "the white one or the other one?" It was "the other one", the Valgmenighed. Grandpa was a free thinker and a member of the brick red church. The members selected their own minister, as the name implies. The Ministry of Church selected the minister for the "white one", which is a state church.

In crossing Funen/Fyn on our way to Jutland (Jylland) we avoided the freeways and enjoyed the narrow roads through fields of rye, corn. The newly harvested wheat fields were already turning green with a new crop of winter wheat. What a beautiful countryside! We were charmed by the landscape and small towns. In earlier times, when Denmark was a country of small farms, land was precious so roads were built through villages making it easier to bring in the harvest and to protect land for production. Denmark is now a member of EU with produce of all kinds imported from many countries. This demands an efficient freeway stystem. Small farms are not the main source of income as the Danes rely on innovation and technology as a large export. The Danes are more affluent and some own automobiles. The demand for a greater road network has transformed the countryside.

We drove through countless small towns that appeared to be well kept and active communities with enough industry to maintain themselves and keep unemployment low. The towns have a noticeable orderliness, history and often, uniqueness of character. There are many new and modern buildings, cafes and restaurants, a blend of old, historical and new buildings. It is now modern to restore old farms using a thatched roof. Denmark has a large immigrant, service population and in my encounters, I found all spoke fluent Danish. Shops seem to be stocked with every item the market produces. Everything can be found including peanut butter, which is my measure of meeting needs.

We arrived in the village of Fole in southern Jutland (Jylland) for a two night stay with Inge and Sune. It was a marvelous and precious time. An outing took us to the island of Mandø, south of the city of Ribe on the west coast. There was also time for a few hours in the town of Ribe, founded in 900 to 1000. We strolled the streets, toured the Cathedral and had dinner in a charming restaurant. I was pleased with Tanya’s reaction. More than once she shook her head saying she could not grasp the idea of being in a functioning city and country surrounded by so much history.

Departing Fole we drove north 30km to see the school in Askov that I attended 60 years ago. Turning east to Kolding we visited the last Renaissance castle, Koldinghus burned by the Spanish in about 1807. It stood open to the wind and weather until the mid 20th century when it was preserved, not restored. A roof was added and uniquely designed oak pillars built to support suspended walkways throughout permitting us to see the original brick walls and rooms occupied by royalty so long ago. Our drive continued from Jutland (Jylland) across Funen (Fyn) and the magnificent, long bridge connecting the island of Funen (Fyn) to Sealand (Sjælland). Our destination was a cottage owned by the manor house, Skjoldenæsholm, set on the edge of a golf course. We were now an hours drive from the airport. Gretchen prepared our evening meal and breakfast the next day. This holiday was far too short and passed too quickly. At 9 A.M. I waved farewell to my family at Kastrup airport in Copenhagen. It was not without tears in my eyes but how happy I was they could spend these days with me.

The following four days found me on travels with Roma Engmann, to the west coast of Jutland (Jylland) with dinner and the night at Sevel Kro. The next night was in an equally charming Vosgaard, a renovated country estate of a titled landowner. To manage the costly maintenance of this property it has been made into an inn and conference center with fine restaurants in extraordinary surroundings. We enjoyed the ocean and long beaches of white sand. That sight has left a lingering memory of vastness and singular beauty. In contrast to two nights in rural settings, we spent two nights in Aarhus in the large, modern Radisson Hotel. Visiting the museum we saw, ’Boy’, by von Rasmussen an Australian artist and enjoyed other sights and sounds of the city. (Google: ’Boy’ art museum Aros in Aarhus) adaskin@shaw.ca

The ferry returned us to the island of Sealand (Sjælland). After a short drive and an even shorter ferry trip of a few minutes we arrived on the tiny island of Orø and the summer home of Gunnar and Roma. I never cease to be charmed by their home and hospitality

After a good night’s rest I crossed Denmark east to west again to be with Inge and Sune in Fole. We had decided to spend time in the Svendborg library archives searching microfilm for early family history. We also visited farms where family had lived. Nyholm farm (Nyholmgaard) had burned to the ground in 1937. We identified the spot the house had stood by the majestic tree.. I kicked a small stone from a larger one under that tree as a gift for Tanya. Within short distances were farms where Nyholm families had lived. I was pleased to see the farm, Fenced Lake Farm (Hegnsøgaard) where my grandparents met, lived and departed for Omaha, Nebraska in 1891. We visited cemeteries where family names were engraved on stones in well cared for plots surrounding the church. Of special interest was the gravestone of my great-grandmother, Maren Nyholm in Skaarup. (died in 1909 at age 92) I learned a little about her life and walked the street where she had lived. This was all new to me.. She ran a boarding home for seminary students from the school nearby.

I attended an all Schubert concert in Tivoli Concert Hall, Copenhagen, played by Hungarian pianist, Andre Schiff. The following night in the Vikingship Museum, Roskilde the Spanish Casals Quartet played Schubert and Beethoven followed by the Brahms Piano Quintet, with Oleg Maisenberg, pianist. A walk along Langelinje and the streets of Copenhagen on a warm, sunny day was irresistible. This city is well deserving of the name, Paris of the North. It was time to return to Grundtvigs Højskole in Hillerød, but not before a stop at IKEA for a few items to give my room a touch of color.